Every 4 and 5 August, Sierra Nevada’s paths come alive with an unusual dawn procession. Devotees of the Virgen de las Nieves take to the barren high mountain terrain, their footsteps echoing a centuries-old tradition. This annual pilgrimage, called a romería, culminates in a noon mass, drawing faithful from far and wide. Pilgrims from Monachil and Trevélez converge, their mountain boots pointed towards the Mulhacén peak at 3,482 metres. Setting out at first light, they aim to reach the summit on foot in time for the service.

At the heart of this tradition is a small sculpture of the Virgen de las Nieves, carried aloft by the faithful. While the pilgrims share an image, the origins of this alpine devotion are steeped in legend – or rather, one legend with two intriguing variations.

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The pilgrimage officially began in 1912 in Trevélez, initiated by the local parish priest. However, popular accounts trace the holy history of Granada’s peaks back to 1717, as recorded by Pilar Zafra Costán Desde Trevélez por caminos: romería al Mulhacén de la Virgen de las Nieves (From Trevélez by Path: Pilgrimage to Mulhacén of the Virgen de las Nieves) for the Andalusian Institute of Historical Heritage. Monachil’s Town Hall, meanwhile, argues that their devotion to the Virgen de las Nieves date back to the 16th century.

Both versions tell of a wealthy individual and his servant (although in Zafra, legend has it that the companion was from Válor and, in Monachil’s version, a “noble”) caught in a life-threatening blizzard while crossing Sierra Nevada, the man from Válor coming from La Alpujarra towards Granada and the one from Monachal towards home. In their hour of need, the Virgen de las Nieves appeared, saving them from certain death.

Since then, it’s said she protects all who visit this peak in the Sierra Nevada. Every 4 August, devotees from both places—and many others from Granada and beyond—pay homage with their pilgrimage.

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The Monachil contingent begins their night journey from Pradollano to Tajos de la Virgen, a spot at the foot of Veleta, passing through Borreguiles. The more intrepid Alpujarra pilgrims set out from Trevélez on the afternoon of 4 August, hiking to Siete Lagunas to camp overnight. They resume their journey before dawn, aiming to greet the sunrise from the heights in what is a cherished mountain tradition.

For those looking for a shorter route, or families with children or individuals with reduced mobility, car access is available to Posiciones del Veleta. The Sierra Nevada National Park keeps the Hoya de la Mora checkpoint open for a few hours to accommodate pilgrims.